Tadavai Samaiah and memories of the quaint Deccan.

Tadavai is a small village 15 odd kms into the dense wilds of the Eturunagaram Wildlife Sanctuary, bang on SH 202, the same road that takes one from Hyderabad of the erstwhile Nizams to Warangal of the erstwhile Kakatiyas. The wildlife sanctuary in question seems to be as steeped in historical myths as Warangal itself, rumored as it is to have Tigers, Leopards {most locals who are comfortable enough talking to you in English will say "Panther"}, Wild Bison, Boar, Bear and of course the usual Ungulates. S.H. 202 literally ends at Eturunagarm, to become a dirt track that leads to a ford on the Godavari and is thereafter rumored to head into deeper forests and Chattisgarh.

Tadavai has some really happy memories for me, it recorded my first foray into the Deccan, my first night out in the wilds, the first time I had brewed a kettle of tea on the road and certain other similar Tom Sawyerish highlights. Tadavai is also of course synonymous with a mnemonic called Samaiah, a Forest Guard who's my friend and guide whenever I am there and also a happy father of two who is still graded as a temporary labourer, even after 20 odd years of service.

I had first met Samaiah around 5 years back, when Kishore and I had reached Tadavai on a Hero Honda Splendour. The two days we had spent there then was absolute bliss and Samaiah had rapidly lost his reticence, taken us ghooming into the jungle, told us his troubles and displayed his Beedi stained teeth at our attempts to photograph wildlife with KB10 cameras.

The man himself is pretty much of a subject worth a caricature - his legs and arms all bone, his skin the colour of woodsmoke and the texture of bark. From the very first time I met him, Samaiah's childlike smile and sparkling eyes have captivated me, reminding me of the Adivasis I have grown up among and studied with. But Samaiah however is no simpleton, in his own way full of knowledge about the forest and rich in jungle cunning.

When at Tadavai for the first time, I had prevailed on him to take us ghooming in the jungle and officiously indicated to him that I was expecting him to take us to some Tiger's Den or some Leopard's kill. Evidently to Samaiah, Kishore and I were greenhorns, so he readily agreed and took us for a nice walk through the forest, where we must have trekked for around 6kms in 2 hours and spotted the following wildlife,

One rabbit exploding out of a thicket at my feet, like a proverbial Bullet.

Another three rabbits jumping over the narrow trail just ahead of us.

Two peacocks that Samaiah excitedly pointed out to us and discouraged us from following.

And, two quails that he was pretty excited at spotting.

I have a reason for not mentioning that it was pretty late by the time we ventured into the forest and that Tadavai is a bit infamous for Naxalite activities. I mean, we were really expecting the rogue to take us into deep jungle, we were aware of the risk too.

That evening, he did redeem himself a bit though. He took me for a Kilometre long hike through a complex series of tunnels in Lantana shrubs, did not commiserate with me over my cut and bruised skin and then suddenly led me out to a panoramic view of a water hole where we surprised a lone Chital. Of course, I needn't mention that according to him this particular water hole was a favorite haunt for wild pigs.

Later in the night, with me and Kishore enjoying the surprisingly well-cooked food that the FRO's cook cum caretaker had sent for us {through Samaiah}, we finally came to know that this nice guy with the ready smile and marathoner's energy was the father of two school going daughters, worried about how to make all his ends meet.

But then, maybe I am giving a low impression of Samaiah's jungle craft. He did agree to take us to a part of the forest where there are 4-5 water holes pretty close to each other. Even though he was mortally scared of going there because that part of the forest was frequented by rogue Bears and notoriously famous for maulings too.

And yes, it is we greenhorns who were too tired to wake up on time.

Samaiah was of course the first person I asked for, when I went to Tadavai for the second time, on AP10R8691 this time, with Amit along, riding his Lightning. Ghooming in the jungle was ruled out this time, we did not have the time and Amit wasn't too keen on any activity apart from sitting on a bike. So for a change, Samaiah asked me if I wanted to visit some waterholes from my pillion seat, as we slowly thumped through the forest. The look on his face when we were headed back from Tadavai was peculiarly one of sadness and that is when I realised that he seems to have cottoned on to me too.

The third time I went to Tadavai was with a group of 6 Bulleteers and this time, Samaiah was pretty silent even by far from loquacious standards. Maybe it was because there was a hatchet faced VSS volunteer with him, or because like me, when in a crowd, he did not like to chatter.

I think it is time to go meet the rogue again. It would be fun to see what he does if I propose a night ride from Tadavai to Eturunagarm, without lights of course.